The journey to Atins, a village located on the coast of Maranhão, involves a small adventure. The author described traveling from São Paulo by plane, covering about 260 kilometers by road, and subsequently navigating by speedboat on the Preguiças River. Upon disembarking, it was already night, and the low tide required him to wet his feet to reach dry land.
This was the first contact with the sand of Atins, which became ubiquitous, from the streets to the travel luggage. During the speedboat crossing, the darkness concealed the mangroves and settlements along the river, but looking up revealed a sky full of stars.
Atins is situated at the mouth of the Preguiças River, where its waters meet the Atlantic Ocean. This old fishing settlement serves as a fundamental starting point for exploring the Lençóis Maranhenses National Park, recognized as a World Natural Heritage Site by Unesco in 2024.
The mix of simplicity and sophistication
In recent years, the village has undergone a transformation, incorporating luxury hotels, exquisite restaurants, and beach clubs that attract tourists seeking excitement. The author stayed at the Villa Pantai Boutique Hotel, rating the experience positively due to the comfort and hospitality. However, while walking through the streets, one notices that Atins retains much of its simple essence; there is no paving, quadricycles act as taxis, and even a short walk requires effort. It is this combination of elements that gives the place its unique charm.
The trip took place in October, a time when the full lagoon season had ended, which raised concerns about the appearance of the Lençóis Maranhenses. However, during the four days spent in Atins, the author found that some lagoons still persisted, and that the dunes continue to tell a significant part of the story, even when the water recedes.
For those planning to visit, it is recommended to bring essential items such as sunscreen, sunglasses, a securely fastened hat or cap, light clothing, swimwear, and a water bottle. Comfortable flip-flops and sandals, suitable for getting wet, are useful for both tours and boat disembarkations. Furthermore, it is crucial not to neglect mosquitoes, which appear in large numbers at night, especially near vegetated areas; repellent is as vital as daily sunscreen. For outdoor dinners, it is suggested to wear clothes that cover arms and legs.
Exploring the Lençóis Maranhenses National Park
The Lençóis Maranhenses National Park covers an area of approximately 155 thousand hectares. Although it presents a desert-like appearance, the region receives precipitation at certain times of the year, forming freshwater lagoons among the dunes. The peak water level usually occurs between June and September, a period considered ideal for visiting the park.
In October, the scenery changes slightly, as the water evaporates and seeps into the sand, resulting in shallower or dry lagoons. During the tour taken in a 4x4 vehicle, depressions between the dunes were found without traces of water, while others still had small lagoons in the middle of the vast expanse of sand. Although the landscape differs from what is seen in photographs, the experience remained impressive.
The first stop was Lagoa Jurará, which was deserted of tourists. The water reached the knees, allowing one to sit on the sand and enjoy the mild temperature, but not allowing for a deep dive. Lagoa do Gavião, on the other hand, was wider and contained a slightly larger volume of water. Unlike Jurará, there were other groups of visitors enjoying the swim, but there was enough space to find a quieter spot. Near the lagoon, the tour operator provided wooden chairs on the sand, in addition to serving water and some snacks.
The last stop was Lagoa Pininga, considered the author's favorite. Besides its blue-green tinted water, there were kitesurfers taking advantage of the wind. The colorful sails cut across the sky while the athletes glided across the surface, executing jumps that seemed to defy gravity. Kitesurfing is a factor that keeps Atins attractive after the high season, as strong winds favor the sport between August and December, attracting both Brazilians and foreigners.
The following day, the group returned to the park to see other locations. According to the guide, one of the lagoons was unnamed. This unknown lagoon presented the most crystalline hue of the Lençóis Maranhenses, at least during the author's visit. Visiting the Lençóis in October requires flexibility, as it is not possible to guarantee finding a specific lagoon as seen in photos; the water volume varies annually, and guides adjust itineraries according to the progression of the drought to optimize swimming spots.
The tours were conducted with Nature, which offers private half-day and full-day routes in 4x4 vehicles, accompanied by guides and adaptable to lagoon conditions, which is crucial in October. At the time of the trip, half-day tours cost starting from R$ 930 per vehicle for two people, and full-day tours started at R$ 1,550. Prices depend on the itinerary and the number of participants.
One of the tours offered by Nature is the sunset on the dunes. Departure is at 3 PM, allowing time to appreciate the landscape and the lagoons before finding a spot to watch the twilight. It was one of the most beautiful sights experienced by the author. As the sun approached the horizon, the light fell on the sand and the water of the lagoons, tinting everything gold. The Nature team prepared a table with cold cuts, bread, snacks, and natural juices to be enjoyed at the end of the day.
One of the beauties of the Lençóis Maranhenses is the perception that the landscape is constantly changing. At nightfall, shadows redefine the contours of the dunes, and over the days, the wind alters their shapes. This recalls Heraclitus' idea that no man steps in the same river twice.
The tour ends around 6 PM and is private, with variable costs per vehicle depending on the number of participants: R$ 1,450 for two people, R$ 1,690 for three or four, R$ 1,860 for five or six, R$ 2,650 for seven to nine, and R$ 3,080 for ten to twelve people. Snacks and drinks are included in this price.
Upon returning to Atins, the author witnessed the force of the wind, which tore off his cap during the journey through the dunes. After carrying a lot of sand with him, he also left a small souvenir at the location.
Atins Beach
Choosing Atins as a base presents a notable advantage, especially in October. Even with the drying of the lagoons, the beach remains a leisure alternative, and the strong winds attract kitesurfing enthusiasts. Atins Beach is located near the mouth of the Preguiças River. Fishermen's boats share the space with the colorful sails of kitesurfers, while bars and beach clubs cater to those who prefer to spend the day by the sea.
From the accommodation to the beach was only a few minutes' walk, but the author quickly learned that in Atins, distance and effort are not always proportional. The paths are covered with extremely fine sand, turning the walk into a calf exercise. Under the intense sun, the sand heats considerably, forcing him to take small hops to avoid foot burns.
During low tide, it was possible to enjoy a swim in the sea. The water was pleasant, although the sandy bottom unexpectedly gave way in certain spots, similar to quicksand. It is essential to warn that one must monitor the tide conditions before entering, as it defines the availability time of the beach; the strip of sand disappears when the water rises, preventing swimming.
A more comfortable option to enjoy the beach is Bar.Co, a beach club equipped with tables in the lounge, chairs with umbrellas, bungalows, and sofas facing the sea. The establishment operates with different consumption models. In the lounge tables, there is no minimum spend. Chairs with umbrellas required an expenditure of R$ 150 during the visit, and bungalows, equipped with day beds and side tables, had a minimum of R$ 500. The menu includes snacks and more elaborate dishes, such as grilled lobster, which cost R$ 300. However, the landscape is the most striking element. When he was there, the tide was high and the strip of sand had disappeared in front of the bar. In the ocean, kitesurfers took advantage of the wind, while fishing boats rocked on the water. At sunset, the sky acquired a filtered tone, dominated by yellow.
It is advisable to check the operating hours before going; in October, Bar.Co closed its activities between 5 PM and 6 PM.
Guara Observation
Another recommended activity is the observation of guaras, red-plumaged birds that inhabit mangrove areas. The tour was conducted late in the afternoon, accompanied by Antônio, a local resident, towards a stretch of the Preguiças River mouth where the birds usually gather to spend the night. Near the vegetation, the boat slowed down, allowing observation of the trees.
On that day, the guaras were reserved. Instead of a large collective flight, they appeared gradually: first one, then a few more, until small red patches began to appear among the branches. There was no scene of dozens of birds crossing the sky simultaneously, as often depicted in photographs. The author, who had never seen a guara up close, was impressed by the intensity of the color, noting that, from a distance, the birds looked like red flowers scattered throughout the vegetation.
For those who wish to take this tour, Trilha Azul Turismo offers departures from Atins Beach at 4:20 PM, with an expected return at 6 PM. The route explores the mangroves of the Preguiças River to observe the arrival of the guaras at dusk. The shared tour costs R$ 170 per person, while the private speedboat has an initial cost of R$ 700 for up to four people.
Accommodation Details
During the stay, the author stayed at the Villa Pantai Boutique Hotel. With 22 units, the hotel has an intimate atmosphere, distinguished by a decoration that values natural materials and craftsmanship. Wood, straw, ceramics, and manufactured furniture adorn the rooms and common areas, harmonizing rustic style with comfort. The author stayed in the Sand Lençóis suite, located on the ground floor, which had a balcony and a view of the pool. The king-size bed was spacious, and the room was equipped with air conditioning, Smart TV, coffee maker, and luggage space. An appreciated aspect was the stone flooring in the bathroom, which provided a massaging sensation for the feet during the shower.
The hotel offers several accommodation categories. The Lençóis Maranhenses category, on the upper floor, includes a private pool on the balcony. There are also larger bungalows, ideal for families and groups, whose environments can be adapted to accommodate extra guests. All guests receive treats, such as a flip-flop and a hat.
A highlight at Villa Pantai is the main pool, designed to evoke the lagoons of the Lençóis Maranhenses. Instead of the conventional rectangular shape, it has irregular contours, a sandy bottom, and stones around it. The water is treated and has a circulation system; although it is not heated, the stones absorb heat, helping to maintain a pleasant temperature. The author swam at night and noticed that the water was still warm.
The hotel also offers spa services (massages starting from R$ 300), a gym, and a craft store. The Companhia da Lagosta restaurant features a menu focused on seafood and regional ingredients. One of the praised dishes was the Serra na Canoa, composed of swordfish, priced at R$ 288.
