Weekend trip to Morretes with a visit to Antonina in Paraná state
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Viagem e Turismo
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Weekend trip to Morretes with a visit to Antonina in Paraná state

Morretes is often included in travelers' itineraries as the final stop of a train journey from Curitiba. However, many tourists get off, have lunch at Barrado, and return to the capital the same day. The author discovered that the city offers much more than just transit, realizing the difference between simply passing through Morretes and exploring it over a weekend.

Besides the historic center crossed by the Nundiaquara River, the city exudes pride in its local cuisine, century-old landmarks, and preserved nature. Since Antonina is only 15 km away, it can be included in the same route to see the colonial architecture and the traditional banana candy factory.

Below is an itinerary for those planning to spend three days in the region after arriving by train from Curitiba.

When the train arrived in Morretes around 1:00 PM, the author focused on lunch. This was not so much due to hunger as it was due to the anticipation of finally trying Barrado. After numerous recommendations that tasting this dish is almost mandatory in this place, he decided to start his weekend with it.

Barrado is a slow-cooked beef dish served with manioc flour, rice, banana, and salad. To try it, the author went to the Stazione restaurant.

The restaurant is located on XV de Novembro Street, near the center, and overlooks the Serra do Mar landscape, featuring a terrace and an outdoor area surrounded by greenery. Even before the meal began, the table displayed local culinary accompaniments. However, the real ritual begins with the serving of Barrado.

The waiter teaches how to mix the meat with the flour on the plate to the desired consistency. Then comes a more curious test of the dish's readiness: the staff flips the plate upside down onto a person's head.

In addition to this typical dish, Stazione offers shrimp, crab balls, and fried fish. The outdoor area with nets and a playground makes it suitable to extend the lunch before further excursions.

After lunch, the author headed to Antonina, which is a 15-minute drive from Stazione. The proximity of the two cities facilitates combining visits within one weekend.

Antonina, founded in the early 18th century, has preserved a complex of colonial buildings and overlooks the bay that gave it its name. The city houses Bala de Banana Bananina, a complex combining a shop, a small museum, and part of the factory itself.

Upon entering, the shop occupied the first space. Wanting to learn more about the history of the famous banana candies, the author proceeded deeper where the small museum and production area were located. Among photos of the family and information about the company's and Antonina's history, he reached a large window through which the manufacturing process could be observed.

The factory has been operating since 1979 and maintains artisanal production stages. Visiting is free and does not require a guide, but it allows one to see how the candies are cut, packaged, and assembled.

Back in the shop, the author was able to taste samples of different flavors: traditional, banana-only, as well as combinations with pineapple, coconut, guava, ginger, and cinnamon. It is worth noting that the ginger flavor is excellent.

Besides candies, the shop features other artisanal products such as jams, pasocas, and coffee, as well as souvenirs, such as refrigerator magnets.

Outside stands an old steam boiler that operated until 2023 and was used to heat kettles used in sweet making. The shop is open daily from 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM, and production runs from Monday to Friday until 5:00 PM. To observe the manufacturing, it is recommended to come between 9:00 AM and 12:00 PM or from 2:00 PM to 4:00 PM.

Returning to Morretes, the evening was adorned with the sight of an Airbus A318 plane at sunset. The aircraft is part of Hangar Morretes, a leisure and gastronomy area located on Almirante Frederico de Oliveira Street.

The author arrived around 4:30 PM with friends for a happy hour. First, he entered the plane, which essentially functions as an aviation museum. The cabin retains seats and some mechanisms. Transparent panels allow viewing of the aircraft's internal structures, including original engine components, as well as hydraulic and electrical systems.

Outside, on the banks of the Nundiaquara River, they spent the evening enjoying snacks and drinks. They ordered shrimp Milanese (R$79.90) and french fries (R$29.90). Among the cocktails, the banana caipirinha (R$29.90) was a favorite.

The food is simple, and the menu is more suited for appetizers than for a full meal. For those who eat little, they can spend several hours there, turning snacks into dinner. If a full meal is planned, it is recommended to visit a restaurant in downtown Morretes, such as the Italian Il Maggiore.

Hangar operates on Thursdays and Fridays from 10:30 AM to 6:00 PM; on Saturdays from 10:30 AM to 8:00 PM; and on Sundays from 10:30 AM to 6:00 PM. Entry costs R$25 per person on Friday and grants access to view the plane. On Saturday and Sunday, the price increases to R$35. It is important to note that the fee is charged even to those who remain only in the exterior area, without entering the cockpit.

Ekôa Park

On Saturday, the author immersed himself in the greenness of the Atlantic Forest. Ekôa Park is located on Estrada da Graciosa, about 20 minutes from the center, and covers an area of 238 hectares of Atlantic Forest. The park is created to combine environmental conservation and recreation and is part of the Great Atlantic Forest Reserve, one of the largest continuous areas of this biome in the country. The author noted that this was his favorite attraction in Morretes.

He arrived around 9:30 AM. At the entrance, a staff member explained to the group how the park functions and talked about the connection between the space and the surrounding forest. The reception also has a shop with clothing and handicrafts. Next, the greenery takes over the landscape, and visitors who bought a standard ticket continue their journey without guide accompaniment. Warning: be sure to take repellent, as mosquitoes are part of the visit.

The first stop was in the yellow house, where a 180-degree projection tells the history of Morretes. At the end, the animation shows a hidden door leading to the next stage of the tour.

The path continues along the Corridor of Senses, which starts in a wooden tunnel through whose gaps sunlight penetrates. Bird sounds accompany the walk, and after passing through, other elements enhance attention to the scents and sounds of nature, such as small ear sculptures installed on trees.

Next, he ventured deeper into the forest. On the main avenue, the Arts Avenue, installations are placed among the vegetation, turning the walk into an open-air gallery with works by artist Toni Reis. These works play with the relationship between humans and nature. For example, in the work 'Thinker,' Rodin's famous sculpture is reinterpreted, integrated into the landscape. And in 'Giant of Nature,' a head seems to emerge from the ground, covered in moss.

Nature presents small surprises besides art. The group found urucum seeds, a fruit used to obtain red pigment. They stopped to look, and within minutes, their hands were stained red.

Then they returned towards Tekôa. This space functions as a school offering courses related to bio-construction, permaculture, agroforestry, ecological design, and bioclimatic architecture.

After a whole morning spent in the forest, it was time for lunch. At Oka Gastronomia, the buffet looked so appetizing that it made stomachs rumble. The menu included dishes such as stir-fried vegetables, bean stew, Barrado, palm heart beans, and chicken baked with herbs. And when it seemed everything had been eaten, a brownie with passion fruit mousse appeared to complete the meal. The buffet costs R$79.90 for adults and includes dessert.

The park has three trails. The Forest Trail is 553 meters long and introduces natural features; the Peabiru Trail, 1190 meters long, tells about the secrets of the path that connected Brazil with Peru; and the Bird Trail, 925 meters long, leads to a biodiversity observation tower. The main entrance ticket costs R$100 per person and includes the 180-degree projection, Corridor of Senses, Arts Avenue, three trails, the suspended net, the Curumim playground, and Tekôa. Some activities, such as rope park, zip line, kayaking, and human bubble, are paid separately at R$45.

Ekôa Park is 20 minutes away from Morretes Train Station and 25 minutes from Antonina Station. Since the park offers enough entertainment to occupy almost a whole day, it is worth adjusting the train trip according to available time. On Saturdays, Sundays, and holidays, the Caiçara train departs from Antonina at 2:00 PM and from Morretes at 4:00 PM, covering the section between the cities in just over an hour.

A train ride deserves a separate article. To find out what it's like to travel on a steam locomotive older than 140 years, with whistles, sparks, saxophone, and even a conductor's kepi, read the full article about the Caiçara train.

A walk through the historic center is essential. Since the area is small, everything can be seen on foot, unhurriedly, walking along the paved streets, past preserved mansions and artisan shops that take up most of the sidewalks.

The author took advantage of the beginning of sunset to tour the area. He accidentally stopped at the Primorato ice cream parlor. Founded in 1954, it now has two branches: one on Rua das Flores, the other on Rua XV de Novembro. The establishment's strength lies in its signature fruit ice creams, but it is worth trying less obvious flavors, such as ginger.

Among the main historical attractions in the center is the Nossa Senhora do Porto Cathedral, built in 1812 and marked by a Portuguese bell in 1854. The Nundiaquara River crosses the center. On the banks, people were seen jumping into the water, playing chess, and playing guitar. It is also possible to take a gondola ride with a guide by prior appointment.

Pátio Morretes

After a long walk, it was time for dinner. The author went to Pátio Morretes, which is also in the city center, and found a lively yet cozy place. After reconstruction in January, Pátio Morretes shed its former format with food trucks and became a unified venue offering gastronomy and live music. The decor has also transformed, using bamboo and vines in the interior.

Music, one of the main features of the restaurant's new phase, accompanied his evening. The soundtrack featured Cadu Lambach, the first guitarist of Legião Urbana, and accompanied lively conversations along with appetizers. As for the cuisine, the menu allows for both a snack and a full meal. There are individual dishes, meat grills, light appetizers, and Barrado.

Pátio Morretes is currently open on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays from 11:30 AM to 11:00 PM. The space also has a supervised children's area.

To conclude the weekend, the author chose the Serra Adventure tour, which travels about 30 km in an SUV over dirt roads, rivers, and green landscapes. In the vehicle, the group travels with a guide who shares interesting facts about the region along the way. In addition to natural sites, the route includes a visit to Hisgeopar and a stop at Casa Poletto for tasting local beverages.

The first stop of Serra Adventure was at the Hisgeopar theme park, which combines automated models covering 110 sq. m, telling the story of the history and geography of Paraná. The installation covers various economic cycles of the state, starting from colonization and the construction of the railway between

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