Savannah: Historic city in the United States with charming architecture and rich culture
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Viagem e Turismo
viagemeturismo.abril.com.br

Savannah: Historic city in the United States with charming architecture and rich culture

Savannah is one of the most charming and historically rich locations in the United States. Located about 400 km from Atlanta (approximately a 4-hour drive) and 270 km from Macon (about a 2.5-hour drive), the city impresses from the first encounter with its avenues adorned with Spanish moss, a characteristic tree of the region, which hangs over the cobblestone streets, tree-lined squares, and notable 19th-century architecture.

The central area, classified as a national historic site, is the Historic District. Here, visitors can admire colonial mansions and Victorian townhouses (some open to visits), as well as more than twenty public squares filled with century-old oaks and Spanish moss. Forsyth Park, considered an iconic landmark, features a historic fountain that frequently appears on the city's postcards.

A recommended tour is along River Street, situated on the banks of the Savannah River. This street hosts commercial establishments, including shops, restaurants, and old cotton warehouses adapted for commercial use. Visitors can stop at the renowned Savannah’s Candy Kitchen, which has been selling pralines, considered a local heritage item, since 1990. These sweets, of French origin, are made with toasted almonds or hazelnuts and covered with caramelized sugar.

On the Savannah River, boat tours are available. Paddlewheel steamboats, such as the Georgia Queen and the Savannah River Queen, recreate the style of 19th-century ships, providing panoramic views of Savannah's historic waterfront.

The city also has a peculiar reputation for being considered the most haunted in the United States. This status is attributed to a past marked by bloody wars, pandemics, and the city's construction over ancient cemeteries. However, this fame attracts many tourists who participate in tours focused on legends and haunted locations.

Savannah is also recognized as the world birthplace of the Girl Scouts. The organization was founded in 1912 by Savannah resident Juliette Gordon Low. It is possible to visit the Juliette Gordon Low Birthplace, now a public museum, which displays original furniture and decorations from the era. Inspired by British scouting, Juliette established the organization with the goal of fostering independence, companionship, and the physical and intellectual development of young women in an era when they had no right to vote.

Near this location is the First Girl Scout Headquarters, known as the Andrew Low House, which served as the venue for the group's first meetings and currently functions as a historical space dedicated to the organization's trajectory. Sales of authentic scout cookies help sustain the group's activities, promoting entrepreneurship and financial planning education from an early age.

In terms of gastronomy, Savannah stands out for its Southern cuisine, offering dishes such as fried chicken, oysters, fish, shrimp and grits, and biscuits. For accommodation, the Hotel Thompson, located across the river and near River Street, is suggested, as it offers beer at reception, in addition to comfortable rooms with elegant decor, a spa, and a pool. The hotel houses the Fleeting restaurant, the Bar by Fleeting for piano music cocktails, and the Stevedore Bakery for breakfast. The Julian Bar, a rooftop bar with a privileged view, is also available, offering quick dishes inspired by Mediterranean cuisine and artisanal cocktails.

Although Savannah is ideal for exploring on foot, motorized transport options exist. The DOT Shuttle offers a free and easy-to-use service in the Historic Landmark District, covering 20 stops connecting the center to Forsyth Park, in addition to linking municipal parking lots, visitor centers, and ferry terminals. This service operates from Monday to Friday, from 7:30 AM to 7:00 PM, and on Saturdays, Sundays, and holidays, from 10:00 AM to 6:30 PM, circulating every 20 minutes with free Wi-Fi.

Savannah Belles Ferry Crossing

To take advantage of the river's presence, free ferries can be used. The Savannah Belles Ferry departs from the city center and crosses the Savannah River, connecting the bustling River Street to Hutchinson Island, where the city's convention center is located, with stops at the City Hall, Waving Girl, and Trade Center terminals, providing a quick and pleasant journey.

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Memories of Grey Street: A Story of Gangsters, Buses, and Porcelain Traders
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iol.co.za

Memories of Grey Street: A Story of Gangsters, Buses, and Porcelain Traders

The author shares memories of life on Grey Street, describing scenes related to porcelain trading, the work of drivers, and the presence of local gangsters.

In the Chatsworth area, women from afar could often be seen arriving to exchange unwanted clothing for porcelain dogs, pitchers, and swans. They would lay out their goods on a street corner, usually not far from the main road, attracting buyers with loud voices reminiscent of a church choir.

The author never managed to learn their names, as they all called themselves 'Mama'. Although this might have seemed respectful, the author notes that it also reflected the crude anonymity bred by colonialism and apartheid, recalling times when white people derogatorily called all Indians from Durban 'Mary' and 'Sammy'.

The author's mother, Latchamma Alimal Naidu, tried to bridge this gap. Having grown up on a farm in Hillary, she possessed an astonishing gift for speaking all Indian languages, from Urdu to Bollywood. As for African languages, she only knew isiZulu and avoided the awkward jargon 'Fanagalo'. Her vocabulary, accent, and intonation allowed her to appear like a rural Zulu woman.

As the eldest son, the author always accompanied his mother everywhere. They often took the bus into town. He recalls shouting conductors in 'Town Talk' shirts or pale-white 'Pointer' shirts, whose overalls sagged low from the weight of coins hidden in front and back pockets. The author would ask her questions about geography, linguistics, and history, receiving expert lessons right there on the seat.

Upon arriving at Grey Street and the bus station opposite Patel's shop, the gangsters and drivers greeted them, lowering their buckets. The author's mother dressed in elegant dresses and low-heeled shoes reminiscent of the Sloane Square style in London, standing out among the crowd. The author watched a line of Chevrolet Fleetline, Ford Fairlane, and Valiant cars transporting long-distance passengers, while their street vendors shouted place names such as 'eMgungundlovu', 'Dukuza', and 'Shepstone'.

After several lessons, his mother stopped him, saying, 'Let's go.' Looking at the men in custom-tailored wool suits and cigars, the author wanted to linger and fully absorb the atmosphere of city life. However, a sharp tug on his thin sleeve forced him to move on. 'Don't look. Those are the gangsters—Duchene, Salot, Red League.'

Over time, he met the TDK—Duchene's children from the city—when they visited his aunt in Himalaya Flats, at the corner of the old Dutch and Centenary roads, near Warwick Avenue. His aunt was magnificent, gathering her hair high, applying bright lipstick, and having dimples as deep as the Blyde Canyon. The TDK helped his mother carry shopping bags to his aunt's apartment and run errands, such as picking up a bag of sweet biscuits from the cafe downstairs. At other times, they could disarm a defiant figure from neck to ankle with a single swing of an Okapi hunting knife. The author also heard legends of Bibi Salot, who wore a pistol with a pearl handle in her stocking and once shot a man under a table.

When they returned to the 'Blue Flame' Ganesh bus sanctuary back on Hugginson Highway and Unit 3, he left behind the excitement associated with the gangsters. Later, playing dress-up in his father's clothes, he could never recreate the image of these men leaning against lampposts on Grey Street.

In their world, a typical path involved black trousers, a white shirt, and a bow tie for working as a waiter. If lucky, 'connections' could secure a job in a sewing or furniture factory. Getting a job in a bank, even as a clerk, was considered the pinnacle of achievement. In their small pond, imagination did not extend to obtaining degrees or becoming university professors.

Everything changed suddenly when Jeffrey from the pink house across the street enrolled in medical college, and Charlie Sigapragasen from the next corner began studying to be a teacher. They created new aspirations. The author's parents constantly repeated the mantra: 'Study hard, and you can become like those guys.' His father regularly emphasized: 'Read, and you can become like the eloquent orator of the British Empire, the venerable Sir Srinivasa Shastri.'

Despite his father's deep political awareness, encompassing communism and Black Consciousness, he did not realize the irony of colonialism at that time. In Shastri, he saw only a well-educated Indian man in an elegantly tailored suit.

His father's old suits came in handy when his mother needed something to trade for porcelain ornaments. One day, his mother asked one of the traders, 'Where are you from, Mama?', when it became clear that her knowledge of isiZulu was superficial. The response was: 'Mankweng'. For the first time, the name of the place and the language stumped his mother. The location was remembered by the author, as was the registration number on their large yellow Ford F-250: LEB, if he wasn't mistaken.

Today, as vintage is fashionable, the author regrets not keeping some of his father's wide bell-bottom trousers from Bronson's instead of the ornaments left to him by his mother in her will.

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